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Real photo comingA phulkari dupatta spread outThe real thing
Lahore, Punjab

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Phulkari

Flower-work embroidered shawls

پھلکاریHow it is said in Urdu

Its name means “flower work”: silk floss darned across cotton until the cloth almost disappears.

Made in
Punjab and Hazara
Made from
Hand-spun cotton (khaddar), silk floss
Colours
Gold, orange, magenta on red or rust
Used for
Wedding shawls, dupattas, wall hangings
Typical price, before shippingCommission link

$40–260

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The story

What it is

Phulkari is the embroidery of Punjab, on both sides of the border. Women stitch long, straight darning stitches in untwisted silk floss across coarse cotton, working from the back. The silk catches the light so the patterns seem to shimmer.

The most densely worked pieces, where no cloth shows at all, are called bagh, meaning garden. They were traditionally made by a grandmother for a granddaughter’s wedding.

Where it comes from

Phulkari has been made in the Punjab for centuries and was part of every bride’s dowry. In Pakistan the craft survives in villages of Punjab and in the Hazara region of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and revival projects have brought it into modern clothing and home decor.

In pictures

Photos we are collecting

  • A phulkari dupatta spread out
  • Close-up of silk darning
  • A woman embroidering
  • A bagh fully covered in stitching

Have a good photo of one of these? Send it to us and we will credit you.

How it’s made

From start to finished

  1. Weave the base

    Hand-spun cotton khaddar is woven and dyed red, rust or ochre.

  2. Count the pattern

    Motifs are counted on the threads of the cloth.

  3. Darn in silk

    Untwisted silk floss is stitched from the back in long darning stitches.

  4. Fill the garden

    For a bagh, stitching continues until the whole surface is covered.

Phulkari, the embroidery tradition of PunjabVideo · YouTube

The revival of phulkariVideo · YouTube

Kinds

What you will find

Phulkari

Scattered flowers with cloth showing between.

Bagh

Completely covered, the finest work.

Modern pieces

Dupattas, cushions and bags with phulkari panels.

In Pakistan

How people live with it

Brides still wear phulkari dupattas at mehndi ceremonies, and old baghs are treasured family heirlooms, brought out for weddings.

Caring for it

  • Dry clean or hand wash very gently in cold water; silk floss can bleed.
  • Never wring; dry flat in the shade.
  • Store rolled, not folded, to avoid creases in the silk.

Buy it well

How to spot the real thing

  • Real phulkari is darned from the back and shows short stitches on the reverse.
  • Machine-made “phulkari” uses rayon thread and repeats exactly.
  • Ask whether the piece was made in Pakistan; much phulkari on sale is made in India, which is genuine too but a different tradition.
GenuineLikely a copy
Silk floss with a soft sheenBright, stiff rayon
Hand-counted, slightly irregularPerfectly repeated motifs
Hand-spun cotton baseThin machine cloth

Where to buy

Sellers who ship abroad

Commission link

Etsy

We may earn a small commission. Your price is the same.

Find phulkari on Etsy ↗

Typical price: $40–260, before shipping. Read the checks above before you order, and ask the seller for photos of the exact piece.

Questions

People also ask

What is the difference between phulkari and bagh?

In phulkari the cloth shows between the flowers; in a bagh it is entirely covered.

How old is phulkari?

Written mentions go back several centuries; surviving pieces are mostly from the nineteenth century onwards.

Phulkari

$40–260 · Etsy

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