Gifts & guides
Peshawari chappal: a buyer’s guide to styles, sizing and spotting a good pair
Two crossed straps, a toe loop and a sole built for mountain paths. How to choose, size and care for the sandal that a London designer once sold for £300.
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In this guide
The Peshawari chappal is the sandal of the frontier: two wide leather straps that cross over the foot, a loop for the big toe, a strap with a buckle around the heel, and a thick, stitched sole. It is worn with shalwar kameez across Pakistan, at Eid and at weddings, by farmers and by prime ministers. A good pair lasts years.
It has also had an unexpected life in fashion. In 2014 a British designer sold a near-identical sandal for about £300, and in 2019 a French luxury house released its own version. Pakistanis were amused, then proud, and then went back to buying theirs for a fraction of the price.
This guide explains the styles, how to get the size right when buying from abroad, and how to tell a good pair from a poor one.
Where the Peshawari chappal comes from
In Pakistan the sandal is also called a kheri. Its roots are in the hill tracts of northern Punjab, where a tough, simple sandal was needed for rough ground. After 1947, craftsmen in Peshawar refined it with softer leathers and finer finishing, and the city’s name stuck. Today chappals are made in Peshawar and in towns across Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and northern Punjab, including Charsadda, Kohat, Chakwal and Talagang.
Traditionally the soles were cut from old truck tyres, which made them nearly indestructible. Many are still built that way, with leather layers stitched on top.
The styles
Classic Peshawari
The original: two broad crossed straps, a toe loop, an open heel strap with a buckle. Usually plain brown, black or tan leather, sometimes with a contrast stitch.
Studded
The same shape with rows of brass or nickel studs on the straps. More festive and popular for Eid and weddings.
Kaptaan chappal
A modern version with a more closed front, made popular around 2015 after a pair was presented to Imran Khan, the former cricket captain (kaptaan) who later became prime minister. It looks a little more like a shoe and is popular with younger buyers.
Charsadda chappal
Named after the town of Charsadda near Peshawar, known for its sturdy, heavily stitched chappals. Many buyers use the name for any well-built, traditional pair.
Embroidered and fashion versions
Some makers add gold or silver thread, woven straps or coloured leather. These are usually for occasions rather than daily wear.
The 2014 copy
In March 2014, the British designer Paul Smith listed a sandal called the “Robert” for about £300. Pakistanis immediately recognised it as a Peshawari chappal, and the internet filled with jokes and price comparisons. After the reaction, the company acknowledged that the design was inspired by the Peshawari chappal.
In 2019, Christian Louboutin released a version with his trademark red sole, named the “Imran” sandal, which reopened the conversation about credit and cultural borrowing. Whatever you think of it, both episodes did the chappal’s fame no harm.
How to get the size right
Pakistani sizes do not always match US or EU sizes, and the straps are cut to a mould. When buying online:
- Measure your foot. Stand on a sheet of paper, mark your heel and longest toe, and measure in centimetres.
- Send the measurement to the seller rather than a shoe size. Good makers ask for it.
- Mention width if your feet are wide or narrow.
- Expect a snug fit at first. Leather stretches; a pair that is loose on day one will be sloppy in a month.
How to spot a good pair
| Check | Good sign | Warning sign |
|---|---|---|
| Sole edge | A visible line of stitching all the way around | Only glue, or a moulded plastic edge |
| Leather | Smells of leather, creases naturally, a little unevenness | Shiny, plastic feel, perfectly uniform |
| Straps | Thick, lined underneath, firmly stitched to the sole | Thin, single layer, stapled |
| Toe loop | Firm and stitched in | Loose or glued on |
| Weight | Feels solid in the hand | Very light |
Ask the seller for close-up photos of the sole and the underside of the straps before you buy. A maker proud of his work will send them.
Breaking them in
New chappals are stiff. That is a good sign.
- Wear them for an hour or two at a time for the first week.
- A little leather conditioner on the straps helps them soften.
- Plasters on the toe and heel for the first few days save a lot of complaining.
- They mould to your foot within two to three weeks and then become very comfortable.
Care
- Keep them dry. If they get soaked, stuff them with newspaper and let them dry slowly, away from a heater.
- Condition the leather every few months.
- Resole rather than replace. Any good cobbler can put a new sole on a well-made pair, and the uppers often outlast several soles.
What to wear them with
The classic pairing is a shalwar kameez, especially at Eid. They also look good with jeans, chinos and linen trousers in summer. In winter in the north, men wear them with socks without a second thought, along with a wool pakol cap.
Khussaکھسہ
Embroidered leather slippers
Pointed leather slip-ons, embroidered with gold thread.
Chitrali pakolپکول
Rolled wool cap
A soft wool cap with a rolled brim, made for mountain winters.
For women’s and wedding footwear, look at the khussa, the embroidered slip-on from Punjab. A pair of chappals also makes a fine present: find more ideas in our guide to gifts from Pakistan.
Questions people ask
What is a Peshawari chappal?
A traditional Pakistani leather sandal with two crossed straps, a toe loop, a heel strap with a buckle and a thick stitched sole. It is also called a kheri.
How should a Peshawari chappal fit?
Snug at first. The leather stretches with wear, so a pair that feels loose at the start will become too big. Send the seller your foot length in centimetres.
What is a Kaptaan chappal?
A modern, more closed-toe version of the Peshawari chappal that became popular around 2015 after a pair was given to Imran Khan.
Are Peshawari chappals comfortable?
Very, once broken in. They are stiff for the first week or two, then mould to your foot.
How long does a Peshawari chappal last?
A well-made pair can last many years, especially if you have it resoled by a cobbler when the sole wears down.
